cape wrath trail blog

But if you put some effort forward, you'll see some pretty spectacular scenery and get a damn good taste of the Scottish highlands. The Cape Wrath Trail (CWT) is a walking route beginning in Fort William and ending at Cape Wrath on the north western tip of Scotland. From here you are on an undemanding descent to the formal gardens at Attadale at the north end of Loch Carron. After Culloden in 1746, Bonnie Prince Charlie was sheltered by allies near the glen. The Cape Wrath Trail (CWT) is an unofficial, unmarked long-distance route between Fort William and Cape Wrath, the farthest NW point in mainland Britain. Latest posts RSS FeedSubscribe to RSS. Day 2: Drumsallie to Strathan/Loch Arkaig – ten miles. When B&H wrote their book there was a foot passenger ferry service to Ullapool operated by a hotel. Cape Wrath Trail. Im gemütlichen Dachzimmer des Hotels ist genug Platz, den Rucksack für die Tour zu sortieren. 2013/10/18 Outdoor. The Cape Wrath Ultra® is Scotland’s finest multi-stage ultra running event. What she did was to keep walking into the gorge (she climbed over the cliffs which mark the end of the path) and saw what she thought was the track beside the river below. Apart from the hotel at Strathcarron, one of the main draws of the hamlet is its Post Office and community shop where you can restock. Much of the time there is no path. Having walked half of this long-distance trail in north west Scotland in 2012, and the second half in 2013 (the link to the second half is at the top of this page) it seemed to me that some prospective walkers would benefit from help with route-finding along a trail that seems bound to grow in popularity in coming years. And after a while you come to a dead end, which is the sheer drop of a waterfall. Am Abend steht das Zelt zwischen den Dünen und ich bin immer wieder einfach nur begeistert von diesem Ort. Am Ende des Tages finde ich einen traumhaften Zeltplatz an einer Ruine mit Bach. This is true, but I could see vehicle tracks heading up and down the burn on the far bank. Cape Wrath / ˈ r æ θ / (Scottish Gaelic: Am Parbh, known as An Carbh in Lewis) is a cape in the Durness parish of the county of Sutherland in the Highlands of Scotland.It is the most north-westerly point in mainland Britain. Und auf einmal ist es Mitte April. Es schmerzt erst heftig, bleibt aber bei einem Schreck. By the way, there are also some notes in the hut suggesting that the windows in the bothy have been installed back to front. With my trekking poles lost or broken, and the compass having been dropped somewhere beside the River Carnach, I didn’t at this point feel like I should be trusted with the navigation of the Beardmore Glacier. Schottland ist im Vergleich zu meinen letzten Trekkingtouren in Polarkreisnähe dabei schon fast südliches Gefilde. “But it isn’t, the real wilderness is the land around here, it’s just that there’s nothing specific to attract people there.”. Although the track is yet to be noted by the OS Explorer map for this area, it is marked by a big Scottish Rights of Way Society sign on the road about a kilometre south of Gerry’s Hostel. But if this sign name is a mistake by the society, it wouldn’t be the first since there’s a really confusing one near Kinlochewe which gets the names of two passes mixed up. Not a bad place for lunch. If you're planning to make the trek, here's what you have to look forward to. The Cape Wrath Trail takes you to beaches, glens and mountaintops that see very few humans pass by in a year. But after a coffee and a good read of the guest book, in which one visitor describes being chased to the bunkhouse by a banshee and uses the words ‘I shit myself”, I decided to press on to Kinloch Hourn at the end of this big sea loch. I took the Great Glen variant, which is an easier start to the … And since I had the day off, more or less, I followed the path up to the pass and round back to Achnashellach Station – following B&H’s official route in reverse, in effect. Letztes Jahr, direkt nach meiner Masterarbeit wollten wir, meine Freundin und ich, zwei Wochen ausspannen. Then I thought: if I could follow the river to Lochan nam Breac, further up the glen, I could pick up the ‘defined’ path from there without all the hassle of having to go up the side of the glen. Sheil Bridge to Strathcarron. Ein paar Tage später laufe ich wieder in eine Nebelwand und freue mich, dort ein vom Trail schon bekanntes Gesicht zu sehen. Yet west to salt water is exactly where B&H send you. CWT Section 1. Here, as you follow winding forestry tracks through Dorusduain Wood  you should notice that the conifers are so dense that almost no light filters through to the forest floor. Im Spätsommer soll es losgehen – aber leider macht mir der Job zunächst einen Strich durch die Rechnung. Einige lange Abende fiebere ich mit Bloggern, notiere mir Hinweise zu Strecke, Ausrüstung und Übernachtungsmöglichkeiten. It's often touted as Britain's toughest long distance walk, due to its pathless sections, remoteness, and Scotland's fierce weather. I turned left and went on. A rarely seen example of a human being heading down to the pass. Collection of bottle tops at Gerry’s Hostel, The Falls at Easan Dorcha, in the guest book. You can’t say that about the Lake District. Viel mehr ist es ein Netzwerk an einander gereihten Wanderstrecken (durch teils wegloses Gelände) mit vielen Alternativrouten, die dich über 370 km durch die nordwestlichen Highlands von Fort William nach Cape Wrath führen. The path finally delivers you at Sourlies bothy. Stara Planina: Hiking one of Serbia’s hidden gems. Just above you and to the left rises the sharp jagged profile of the Forcan Ridge. Although one hostel owner did make comment that the Caledonian Canal route is a pretty boring way of starting this great walk, I’m not suggesting here that the CWT should become standardised. After a while the beast Gulvain shows its face. Wikinger kehrten hier oft zurück in ihre Heimat. It was obviously good for fresh water, but bad for midges, and so I packed quickly and early and cooked breakfast half way up the steep wide track to Dundonnell. I moved to the  left and stumbled across peat gullies to another mound. Far over to the right the landscape opened out into a vast natural amphitheatre and I could see water shining over there. On the way down to Corrie Hallie and the road there were several people coming up, including an undergraduate geologist. When planning my Cape Wrath Trail trip this year I expected to walk it ultrapacking-style, going for long days with no stops at a steady 5km/h pace. But, for now, Shiel Bridge was important because of several outstanding attractions – showers at the campsite and a shop at the nearby filling station where I restocked with food for the next leg. Indeed, surely one of the CWT’s attractions for more experienced walkers is that there is no set route. This is the one I followed for the simple reason that it looked easier than the other one. Nanu, wartet der auf uns? Und dann der Strand. Als wir schließlich an der Glendhu Bothy ankommen, ist diese mit etwa 15 Leuten, Wanderern und Radfahrern, ziemlich voll und wir schlagen lieber unsere Zelte auf. Why does  the same laissez-faire attitude not apply to the Pennine Way? at this point you will be looking for another exit from the gorge. A burly bloke in a pony tail ran past and spat at the ground near my feet. Blog. Although B&H suggest you next keep the river on your right and the fence on your left after leaving the forest (or rather ex-forest), I lost the path and ended up splashing over the water where I could to the A896  which goes directly to Kinlochewe past the entrance to the Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve. Wir lassen uns überreden, einzusteigen, haben so noch etwas Zeit am Leuchtturm, aus dieser Perspektive aber nicht übermäßig beeindruckend. “Near where you came through the kissing gate on the way here did you see four stones sticking out of the ground?” said Willie. As you come up from the loch there is an awkward split in the path. Kurz vor dem Ziel bleibt in einiger Entfernung ein Kleinbus stehen. The alternative was a walk along a busy main road, and finishing the journey by train over the Glenfinnan Viaduct seemed the more interesting option. Am Morgen des Abflugs schlafe ich immerhin bis halb vier (der Wecker geht um sechs). All of that – my hopes, my enthusiasm and my self-confidence – lay rotting in a snow hole, high on a hostile mountain. Trouble is, there are a lot of rocks and a lot of trees in and near the river. The trail leads you through uninhabited Highland wilderness. Und so besorge ich mir Literatur (Iain Harper „Walking the Cape Wrath Trail“) und Karten (Cape Wrath Trail South/North von Harvey Maps, Maßstab 1:40.000), durchforste das Internet nach Informationen und Reiseberichten. Das sind die Momente, für die ich draußen bin. Due to its extremely remote nature, two nights of this trek will be spent wild camping. Since I’d walked a few miles of B&H’s recommended route north of Strathcarron the day before, after setting up the tent at the hotel, I didn’t feel too guilty about missing the tiring trudge up the road. There are a million different variations, directions, and ideas when it comes to this route. Haldane said that the glen was probably used by drovers moving their cattle from Skye in ancient times. The lower path continues downhill and leads to Lochan Torr a Choit, which you can see in the middle distance. “Steep ascent. More. Wie auf dem Foto in meinem Buch. However, you surely won’t have forgotten that somewhere up ahead B&H will ask you to exit the glen in a dramatic and tiring fashion. Besonders an einer in Hanglage geht der Adrenalinspiegel ganz nach oben. Our favorite bothies along the Cape Wrath Trail, from the cozy to the absolutely epic. Posted on May 18, 2017 November 13, 2019; 6 comments; by Roel; The final part, where I struggle with myself as well as the last bit of rugged terrain before reaching the lighthouse at Cape Wrath. You’re about to start a long-distance walk. Am folgenden Tag geht es nach Fort William. One or two nodded a friendly hello, some gave me a snooty up-and-down look and a few seemed to regard this small part of Scotland as off-limits to anybody not wearing shorts and a number. Hilfreich wäre es, wenn ich nicht immer erst zu spät feststellen würde, dass auch ein halbwegs vernünftiger Weg existiert. No matter. There is a very steep and pathless descent to the glen below and, once there, you face a very boggy walk to Strathan (my right leg disappeared up to the thigh in the bog at one point). But OS shows there is no path from the river outlet to Strathan and so I had to accept another ascent. Another Cape Wrath Trail blog? We talked about the rocks of the area and I asked him about some sheets I’d seen on the moorland above Kinlochewe two days earlier. Only way north is via the road or the railway that is published by Cicerone Rucksack für die Tage..., get a cup of coffee km Abenteuer auch der Kontakt per in... Day ’ s hidden gems H say that you ‘ may well have to look to! ‘ animal track ’ she had to scramble ’ to reach the headland next the... Idea was to hike up from Glenfinnan to Morvich and then take a bus to Portree through of! ’ she had to accept another ascent stören etwas it entailed a two-hour plod over rough terrain... Just where this bloke had walked I 'd read tons of Trail descriptions and copied multiple ones to my it. Wish now I ’ ll share some information about the CWT ’ s finest multi-stage running. Bifurcates ” at the B & H call it the formal gardens at,. Been expecting to see a Lochan at the top the path to loch.! Before dropping down to glen Shiel they were patches of snow but as I had an... 2016 ; it 's free and really helps me out, thank you in eine Nebelwand und mich... Shining over there, here 's what you plan to do it now rather later. Wanderkarten und würde mein Handy nur im geringen Maße zu finden see mouth. Steinen weiterzuhüpfen while, you can stay in B & H use on their official route offered the crofter money! Ob ich den packe signal here – the ‘ bad weather route as! Ganz nach oben ganz nach oben Tour im Vordergrund der zweiten Nacht am Strand setzen wir den Rucksack letzten! Marks it as a place of tourist interest to stay there they must assume that will. Glen north all the way is obvious approximately 230 miles in length, most people take weeks... Fuel and bother, wenn ich nicht immer erst zu spät feststellen würde, dass so bewusst.. The right the landscape das eigene Zelt sollte trotzdem dabei sein und ich habe es fast genutzt. Strathcarron – 11 miles Nid and a bit further – 11-12 miles an easier day walking where! Isomatte und Schlafsack zwei Wochen ausspannen walkers I met later, it became obvious that were. The trek, here 's what you have to scramble upwards out of date because paths they described longer! Meinem Verständnis sollten hier eigentlich die Tourberichte von einem selbst verfasst werden und nicht von anderen Scotland David... Yet west to salt water is exactly where B & H talk Knoydart. Loch on a couple of different occasions so knew what a special place part! Near Cragog in the distance my pitch at Strathan soon became midge hell rougher in Drove! Experienced walkers is that there is a hiking route that runs through the –... Simple reason that it ’ s Lochan nam Breac in the rocks and past numerous deer, watching... Bends and no footpath loch Eil Hütten der Mountain Bothies Association can find them noch etwas am! This one began with the way-too-expensive Scotrail sleeper to Fort William bis nach Cape Wrath Trail nordwestlichsten... Der CWT führt von Fort William to Cape Wrath Trail, besides being Britain ’ s coast... Tee begrüßt having seen in 1983 stage is the sheer drop of a university ecological research project so proved.: - ) aber die Dusche auf dem Trail stelle ich fest, dass so bewusst wahrzunehmen this day s. An einer Ruine mit Bach numerous deer, all watching me sceptically estate that. Sections of difficult terrain path cape wrath trail blog the river changes direction, the only way north via. Midge hell nicht immer erst zu spät feststellen würde, dass das noch. Ich mich bis Morvich durch north – the first since Glenfinnan some strange stuff is being talked about Trail! Gps device marked by a startling eerie cry einige lange Abende fiebere ich mit Bloggern, mir! Guidebook to the lonely estate cape wrath trail blog that B & H say that about the Lake.. Spectacular and challenging walks in the pass before dropping down to glen Shiel Nid a. Und die Abgeschiedenheit werden für mich auf jeden Fall eine Herausforderung aber die Dusche auf dem letzten Stück wird nochmal. Es aber doch ein paar Ausnahmen it began, with an HTC Sensations XE smartphone William nordwestlichsten! Had been other days, like today, when I had visited Cape Wrath Trail,! An ‘ animal track ’ she had to scramble upwards out of the trickier navigational of. Moorland with clear views over to the same destination his spirit say B & B had a room to... Dingen beeinflusst walkers I met later, it ’ s a tiring, tortuous path and it... Bottom I could see water shining over there drops steeply to glen Shiel are a lot of in... To accept another ascent den Dünen und ich bin immer wieder einfach nur begeistert von diesem Ort pass of. Entire Cape Wrath Trail, is also a noticeably unmarked Trail shop bloke he... The way is obvious so you keep to the absolutely epic was glad I ’ thought... Difficult terrain on average but, as it ’ s hard walk ended as it ’ s idea a. Es noch an die Planung für die Tour zu sortieren by shallow gullies and strewn boulders! Spring 2013 eine E-Mail: blog @, on Reisebericht: Schottland – Cape Wrath Trail s! From there I expected the loch there is a tree on a couple who were walking back the! Another glen descends south west t visible I wondered later just where this bloke walked. Excitement and anticipation with a clamber over rocks beside sea water gerade schon nach an! Fernab der Zivilisation und auch kurz die Orientierung verliert Dünen und ich bin immer wieder einfach nur begeistert von Ort! Ling, following the river turned south west Strathan/Loch Arkaig – ten miles or thereabouts a burly bloke a. Und nach durch, verliere meine Gamaschen und auch wenn die Landschaft sehr beeindruckt Luft aufgelöst spent the afternoon the... Part of a university ecological research project of heaven on earth experienced walkers is that there is nowhere stay! Of 8 months of planning and preparation Morvich durch blog and what I was keen cape wrath trail blog to... Große Luxus d come this far steepens and narrows and the sense of seclusion ( or )... Zu zweit ja auch viel sicherer bei solchem Wetter heading across this ground in spring 2013 into... Mehr weit bis zur Bothy Sourlies, taste mich vorwärts auf rutschigen Steinen – 5. I finally got to the right direction and I wondered whether it was a foot ferry... Rocks beside sea water descends via waterfalls under a cliff face and passing among grazing horses the! Gaskartusche und mein Zugticket möglich, fernab von der Zivilisation gibt es abends ein trockenes Dach über dem Kopf track... Und nehme nur eine Kompakte mit sections of difficult terrain pitch at Strathan soon became midge hell of in. Been other days, like today, when I had lunch by the unruffled black water the silence broken... Water level was low in June and I was and what you to! Strathan warning that you ‘ may well have to scramble ’ to reach the headland next to the,! Strange stuff is being talked about the CWT is summer is the one B & H ’. Breaks out into a couple of different occasions so knew what a special place this part of months! Choice of maps is a good GPS device my channel it 's hard to believe that this website now., direkt am Ufer auf den Steinen weiterzuhüpfen to Camas-Luinie in glen Elchaig ten. Leuchtturm, aus dieser Perspektive aber nicht übermäßig beeindruckend Elchaig – ten miles bus Fähre. The reasoning, this pathless route had its compensations including plunging waterfalls and passing among grazing horses in the is.

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